CROSSROADS IN PROVENCE
HÔTEL DE CAUMONT
AIX-EN-PROVENCE, FRANCE
Behind the vaulted walls of Aix-en-Provence stands an estate that serves as a monument to the elevated grandeur of the city and a living example of the city’s relevance within Provence. Hôtel de Caumont is not your standard historical attraction, this jewel tucked into the corner of Aix checks all of those boxes, of course, while maintaining itself as something much more. Bar, tearoom, museum, gallery, theater, garden, cultural center—and a damned beautiful thing to look at, even from behind a closed gate. It’s a symbol of Aix’s influence on the region and France as a whole and a guiding light for where its future lies.
Located in the haughtier area of Aix (a very haughty city to begin with), the neighborhood used to be where French aristocrats would call home during the summer. Given its high-society provenance (pun intended), the hotel was originally constructed as a residence for François Rolland de Réauville, a very important person on the Provencal scene, and the Marquis de Cabannes, in 1715. Obviously, old Franky had commissioned quite the project, as the building's construction wasn’t finished until thirty years after his death. Being the stunner that it was, the private mansion was snatched up by Marsielle’s richest banker, François de Bruny. In usual rich-kid fashion, Bruny’s children used the estate to host lavish parties and show off their vast art collection to the rest of the French aristocracy.
The building passed from family member to family member, one of whom renamed it Hotel de Caumont after marrying the Marquis de Caumont. The building did as most old buildings do—it fell into a state of disrepair. The second world war was particularly rough on the once shimmering gem of Provence, which was converted into an apartment building and housed several members of the La Resistance until it fell into the hands of the authorities.
In 2010, the entire estate was sold off to new owners who set out to completely restore the spaces back to its former glory. Historians, heritage architects, and specialized restorers were flown in to oversee the restoration. €10 million and five years later, the Hotel de Caumont reopened its doors, this time to the public, hosting a wide variety of concerts, gallery shows, films, musical performances, and lectures.
The historical resonance of the space can be felt the moment you walk through its gilded doors. Maybe it’s the splendor of the entrance hall; maybe it's the intimate yet elevated atmosphere in the gardens and throughout the entire experience; maybe it’s the mind-blowing drinks enjoyed in the velvet-soaked tea room. Whatever it is, it’s something that will always stand out amongst the rest of your tourist death traps and nicely set the tone for how you will experience the rest of Aix.
A few details…
Tickets will cost €14.50 per person.
Be sure to opt for the full guided audio tour, it gives you a full view of the building’s history, a tour of the current exhibition, and access to the estate’s gardens.
After the tour, give your feet a rest while enjoying some snacks, tea, and/or bottle of wine in the tearoom.
Address
3, rue Joseph Cabassol
13100 Aix-en-Provence
www.caumont-centredart.com/en/home
Tel: 04 42 20 70 01
Hotel Hours
October to April: 10am to 6pm
From May to September: 10am to 7pm
Cafe Hours
October to April: 11:30 am to 6pm
May to September: 11:30 am to 7pm